Coste della Sesia Rosso Leandro 2021, Gaggiano

From the volcanic-infused foothills of Italy’s Alto Piemonte, the 2021 “Leandro” by Gaggiano delivers rustic elegance with deep roots. Based on 80% Nebbiolo, 10% Croatina and 10% Vespolina grown on red-scoured, sand-and-rock terrain at elevations of 270–380m in the hills between Sostegno and Casa del Bosco. After destemming and gentle maceration (20 days for Nebbiolo/Croatina; 14 days for Vespolina) it’s aged roughly six months in large Austrian casks plus a portion in neutral 500L French barrels. On the nose you’ll find red cherry and wild strawberry, gently spiced with pepper and a balsamic hint of licorice to finish. The palate is medium to full-bodied, lithe yet structured, its fine tannins supported by the region’s signature mineral thread of iron-rich volcanic soil. This is a wine built for conviviality and clarity—not overblown, but compelling. Pair with braised pork shoulder, wild mushrooms over polenta or a mature Fontina-and-fig compote for a true alignment of place and plate.

About the Winery

Following World War II, Gervasio Fabris left Veneto for a small farm in the foothills of Italy’s western Alps. The farm was in Roasio, a village in the northern reaches of Piedmont, and Gervasio tended vines (and cows) in the forgotten appellation of Bramaterra. His son, Sandrine, came to help in the vines after school let out, and gained a lifelong love for vineyard work. He went on to run a laundry service, then retired from that to help his own sons–Marco and Claudio–in their vines. Upon Gervasio’s passing, the two brothers had decided to follow in their grandfather’s footsteps and make wine in their region. The name Gaggiano comes from the neighborhood where Marco lives in Lessona, traditionally called Gajàn, and Leandro is named for Marco’s grandfather-in-law, who appreciates “easier” wines.

The debut vintage was 2014, and Cristiano Garella, the passionate Young Turk of the Alto Piemonte, is their consulting enologist. We were very fortunate back in 2013 to get to spend an entire day traveling around the Alto Piemonte region with Cristiano, tasting wine, walking vineyards, and even helping with punchdowns, and we still consider him a friend!