Barbera Appassimento 2022, San Silvestro

Located on the northern banks of the Tanaro River in the Piedmont region of Italy—essentially in Roero!—the sandy, dry, and mineral-rich soils naturally limit vine vigor and enhance grape concentration. For this passito-style Barbera, the choice of the Roero-side hills was intentional: this site’s terrain and microclimate are particularly suited to the appassimento technique. The appassimento process itself is partly done in the vineyard: a portion of the Barbera clusters are left to dry on the vine (by twisting/breaking the stalks), while the rest are picked and dried in small wooden crates for around 40 days​. This method shrivels the grapes, concentrating sugars and flavors before fermentation.

The Appassimento technique makes this wine very deep and complex. Its richness is indicated by its deep ruby hue and ripe red fruits, like cherry jam, plum and hints of red licorice. The use of oak provides subtle notes of vanilla and clove, which is enhanced by the cinnamon and pepper elements. Behind the aromas of red fruit, lie lots of blue and black fruits. Juicy stewed blueberries, black cherries, and hints of blackberry are matched with the silky and velvety tannins. Barbera is naturally high in acidity, and that natural brightness combined with the drying process used to make this wine results in a pleasantly balanced and deliciously quaffable red wine.

About the Winery

In the heart of Italy's Langhe region, where rolling hills are adorned with vineyards as far as the eye can see, lies the storied San Silvestro winery. Established in 1871 by Giovanni Sartirano, this family-run enterprise has been crafting wines that embody the essence of Piedmont for over a century.

The Sartirano family's journey into winemaking began in the late 19th century, with Giovanni Sartirano at the helm. His passion for viticulture laid the foundation for a multi-generational legacy. Over the decades, the winery has remained steadfast in its commitment to traditional Piedmontese grape varieties, including Barbera, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Grignolino, Arneis, Cortese, and Moscato. This dedication ensures that each bottle reflects the unique terroir of the region.

Today, under the guidance of Paolo and Guido Sartirano, the fourth generation of the family, San Silvestro blends time-honored winemaking techniques with modern innovations. In 2006, the winery relocated to Novello, on the shores of Ghercina Lake, where state-of-the-art facilities were established, including a quality control lab, underground cellars, and a bottling system capable of processing 4,000 bottles per hour. Despite these advancements, their craft remains deeply rooted in tradition.

Beyond their own 7 hectares of vineyards, San Silvestro collaborates closely with 40 trusted grape growers, some of whom have partnered with the winery for decades. This “Piedmontese model” emphasizes mutual respect and shared commitment to quality. The winery also adheres to rigorous sustainability certifications to ensure environmentally friendly practices.

One of the winery's notable endeavors is reviving and promoting indigenous grape varieties. San Silvestro has invested in cultivating Nas-cëtta, a semi-aromatic white grape native to Novello, producing wines that are both tactile and approachable. This initiative not only preserves the region’s viticultural heritage but also offers wine enthusiasts a taste of Piedmont’s diverse flavors.

While deeply connected to its local roots, San Silvestro has expanded its reach globally. Approximately 88% of its production is exported, with wines finding their way to Europe, North America, China, and beyond. This international presence is a testament to the universal appeal of their meticulously crafted wines.