Cabernet Franc 2022, Villa Varda

The nose opens with a distinctly Friulian take on Cabernet Franc—more lifted than stern, more nimble than brooding. Violet and other purple flowers lead the way, followed by red plum, black cherry, and a mix of fresh herbs and cracked pepper. As it opens, there’s a little green edge in the best Cabernet Franc sense, plus hints of currant, mint, and a faint balsamic note that keeps the whole thing feeling brisk and awake rather than plush.

On the palate, it’s medium-light in body with a juicy core and just enough tannin to keep things honest. Red and dark fruit notes carry through, but the real appeal is the shape of the wine: fresh, peppery, and gently savory, with a clean line of acidity and a long, lightly herbal finish. This is not a blockbuster. Thank goodness. It’s a table red with snap, charm, and zero need to shout.

About the Winery

Set near the Livenza River in Prata di Pordenone, Villa Varda sits in that classic Friuli sweet spot: Alpine influence from one direction, Adriatic influence from the other. The estate works with about 37 acres of vines, and its vineyards are rooted in the Grave zone’s trademark alluvial gravel, with an extra wrinkle of clay and limestone that gives the wines a little more shape and aromatic definition. The Maccan family farms sustainably, harvests by hand, and keeps the cellar work straightforward, letting fruit and place do most of the talking.

Villa Varda as a place has deeper roots than the winery itself. The historic villa dates back centuries, and the broader site has long been part of the agricultural fabric of this corner of Friuli. The current wine project is much newer—established in 2012—but it draws a lot of its identity from that older landscape: a working, river-shaped plain where farming has always mattered more than spectacle.

What we like here is the lack of fuss. Villa Varda doesn’t seem interested in dressing Friuli up in borrowed clothes. The wines are varietal, clean, and direct, with enough regional character to remind you that Friuli is not just Pinot Grigio country, no matter how many supermarket shelves would like you to believe otherwise. Their Cabernet Franc is a good example—fresh, peppery, lightly structured, and built more for the table than for showing off.